Beards are back
COVER STORY / Where did all this hair come from?
Matthieu Burgard / Vancouver / Thursday, June 03, 2010
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If 2009 ended on a typically waxed and hairless note, the last few months have seen copious amounts of facial and body hair sprout in the gay community.

Suddenly the sea of twinks in the Davie Village has parted and a whole lot of hitherto un-hairy guys have emerged — with beards.

Even Mr Gay World 2010, visiting Whistler’s WinterPride for the first time this March, noticed the fuzz.

“I always thought the gay scene was the same across the world,” Charl van den Berg told Xtra. “I was completely proven wrong when I came to Canada. Guys are guys’ guys here — I’ve never seen so many beards in my life.”

Neither have we, until recently.

What’s going on? In a post-AIDS culture known for its obsession with health and youthful beauty, sculpted muscles and hairless definition, why the sudden tufts of fur?

“As gay guys can be more adventurous, they have always been at the forefront of new looks,” says Allan Peterkin, a Toronto psychiatrist and co-author of The Bearded Gentleman.

Of course, beards are hardly new territory for the bears among us who have always embraced their masculinity — not to mention their bodies’ natural tendencies.

But for twinks, the trend marks a definite departure.

Not necessarily, says Peterkin.

Facial hair trends go in cycles, he explains, even as he acknowledges that “the full beard is something that hasn’t been done for a long time.”

Today’s take on the full beard “is very playful,” he says. “You grow it with a scent of masculinity, of maturity and of irony to mean ‘I don’t take myself too seriously.’”

Peterkin thinks the recent shift to a more masculine look may be a bit of a backlash to the gay culture of the 1980s, where everyone was so clean-shaven, top to bottom.

Robert Graham is also well versed in matters of man-scaping. He too has observed “a bit of a movement toward the more bohemian aspect of life, which coincides with a more natural appearance — and sometimes includes tattooing and piercing.”

In Graham’s modern-day barbershop, Momentum Grooming, the most common beard is currently the close-cropped full beard with very clean and distinct edges.

“The length of the facial hair is -often determined by the pattern and fullness of growth. Men with darker beards tend to have it cut closer to the skin, whereas fairer men leave it a bit longer,” he says.

Does this new, tightly cropped beard suggest a compromise between the more virile look of hot manly stubble and the manicured metrosexual look?

“This new facial hair praise goes across cultures, ages, and reaches straights and gays,” says Peterkin. “It’s kind of a universal expression.”

In other words, the new beard -mania is hardly unique to Davie St.

“It is a definite hipster or artistic aesthetic and is visible in most cities around the world, especially Brooklyn, NYC,” says Chad Taylor, co-owner of Moods hair salon in Yaletown and winner of the Top Canadian Hairstylist 2010.

“It appears that facial hairstyles on men seem to follow an 8–10 year cycle, with the most recent one being the goatee,” says Graham. “We fully expect the beard to last about the same amount of time, but are now [already] seeing people put some unique spins on it, and even incorporating some designs.”

“As the summer months kick in, the dedication to this look wavers,” Taylor notes. “A simple swipe of a razor, the wearer can take away a lot of unnecessary heat and itchiness.”

It’s not too late to join the beard nation. But like any trend, it’s not for everyone. “It’s worth trying, but if it looks patchy and pubescent, or makes you look like Charles Manson, maybe rethink it,” Taylor suggests.


***

BEARDS ARE BACK

With Facebook fanpages devoted to “gay boys with beards,” Xtra decided to take a completely unscientific poll of our own. We found some hot hairiness on Davie St and asked them to explain their facial fur.


Oskar
(Matthieu Burgard)
OSKAR
Why did you grow a beard?
Without it, I look younger.

Do you think you look wiser, manlier, sexier?
I look older, like mature.

Do you think you have more sex appeal?
In the gay world, the bearded guys look manlier and straighter.

Any new sensations with a beard?
When it’s too long, it doesn’t feel really good. It’s going to scratch. But kissing, it’s totally different. You really feel the jaws… aaahh.


Quinn
(Matthieu Burgard)
QUINN
Why did you grow a beard?
I’ve had a beard since I was a teenager. I’m pretty used to having a beard. If I do shave it to a goatee, it’s for a costume, for a reason. I never have no facial hair.

Do you think you look wiser, manlier, sexier?
Probably manlier, probably a bit sexier and definitely older. It says I have a sensitive side, and also a manly side.

Do you think you have more sex appeal?
Oh yeah, for sure. I think when I don’t have a beard, I look like I’m 12 years old. I’ve never had anyone say, “You look better without a beard.”

Any new sensations with a beard?

I like the feeling of another beard rubbing against mine.


Victor
(Matthieu Burgard)
VICTOR
Why did you grow a beard?
Because people tell me it looks good on me. And it goes with my facial expressions, and it makes me look a little more virile. And I do like how it looks on me. It goes with my personality, I guess.

Do you think you look wiser, manlier, sexier?
I know it makes me look a little bit sexier. When I shave, I feel younger. You know, it changes your whole personality and your whole physical appearance.

Do you think you have more sex appeal?

I think so, but I don’t know.

Any new sensations with a beard?
It feels a little bit itchy sometimes. I’m lucky to have the ability to grow a full beard. I mean, so many guys would like to have it and it doesn’t grow evenly and fully.


Maxime
(Matthieu Burgard)
MAXIME
Why did you grow a beard?
I feel more mature and sexy and more naughty, actually. The beard is also an accessory that goes with my style. I find these old pictures of guys in shorts with body and facial hair very sexy.

Do you think you look wiser, manlier, sexier?
Each time I shave now, I feel nude and not sexy anymore. But I love changing my facial hair features. Sometimes I have a mustache, sometimes a beard. Sometimes it gives me an ’80s style, other times a more reassuring and mature look.

Do you think you have more sex appeal?

Yes, I think I have more success with guys. They like me clean-shaven, but generally they prefer me with a beard.



Thomas
(Matthieu Burgard)
THOMAS
Why did you grow a beard?
I’ve always had a beard, since I was 15. The last time I shaved, it was for the operation of my wisdom teeth.

Do you think you look wiser, manlier, sexier?
Without my beard, my cheeks are bigger. I look like a baby. But with facial hair I look more mature and, therefore, more attractive to men. Before going out, I shave right around and I remake the contours, you know, the upper part above the cheeks and the hair over my throat.

Do you think you have more sex appeal?

Definitely, because with a beard you look more virile and mature. More experienced…

Any new sensations with a beard?
I like to feel another beard next to mine. Not really for having sex, but for hugs and kisses.


André
(Matthieu Burgard)
ANDRÉ
Why did you grow a beard?
Because I don’t feel like shaving. Not by laziness. It’s just a relaxed attitude towards growing.

Do you think you look wiser, manlier, sexier?
I just feel relaxed…. It’s easier just having a beard and being okay [with] hair on your face.

Do you think you have more sex appeal?

Perhaps. Sometimes, not always. It depends who the other person is. I prefer with beard.

Any new sensations with a beard?
No, I don’t even think about it being on my face.


****

TRIMMING TIPS

Allan Peterkin and his co-author, Nick Burns, offer many tips on how to find your best pattern and maintain your beard. (They also tell you how to shave it all off painlessly when the trend fizzles!)

Here are a few tips adapted from the book:


1 Stop shaving for the first 4–6 weeks to see where and how your beard grows.

2 Don’t focus on making sharp, straight lines, but always control the thickness.

3 Trim your beard when it’s dry and start above your jaw, from your chin to your ear.
   
4 For the edges, follow the line of the jaw, where the skin of your neck meets the skin of your chin.

5 Use beard or hair conditioner to soften your beard and make it shine.

— from The Bearded Gentleman: The Style Guide to Shaving Face. For more tips check out beardedgentleman.com/blog/



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Reader Comments


 
Lack of News?
Yep, believe it folks. This is a cover story in Vancouver. Here's a hint. When a trend is being talked about, the trend is over. Beards suit much of the male population but sadly many of the 20somethings in this town already look 35-40something without adding facial hair. lol Its ova!
WahWah, Vancouver BC
06/03/10 2:06 AM EST
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Beard? Where?
Those photos of guys with beards... Those are beards? With the exception of Victor, perhaps, that gallery is a bunch of guys who stopped shaving for oh, twenty minutes or so and have generated a teenager's crop of peach fuzz. I would have thought that an article about beards might have included some shot of actual, you know, beards!
Edward, Vancouver BC
06/04/10 1:10 PM EST
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Are you kiding?
Thomas is hot enough to eat with gravy!
matt, ottawa on
06/04/10 3:26 PM EST
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united colours of beards
Lots of queer men of colour have beards too; which the sampling were more reflective of that.
Shawn, Toronto ON
06/09/10 7:17 PM EST
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Pass the Metamucil
Oh yes, I love being a gay man. Everything , and I mean everything is geared towards the younger crowd. Not one photo of a guy in his 40's, 50's 60's. Yep, that's right folks, once you turn about 40 something as far as the gay community is concerned you are a non-person. Oh yes, enjoy your gay youth because that is where it is at. Once you become an ageing gay man forget it, you are nothing, invisible an old queen who no one even wants to know anything about. Remember, as long as you are young and gay, the gay world is your oyster. When you age and become a has been, shut up , go away.
Oldgreybeard, Vancouver BC
06/12/10 11:52 PM EST
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whatdotheyknow
Oh but the youth will want you for your money, who you know, what you have and what you can do for them. I say let them suffer and try and make it on their own. Good luck with that, they have no sense of personal pride and they're usually bad in bed anyway. It would've been nice if this article could've showed someone from each decade but its what you would expect from XtraWest, more fluff. That paper keeps getting thinner and thinner. Worth much anymore?
DAMAN, Vancouver BC
06/13/10 5:15 PM EST
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Message to Oldgreybeard...
Oldgreybeard: ageism isn't restricted to the gay world. It's a cross-preference phenomenon. Sadly....
Steve Zygote, Vancouver BC
06/14/10 10:37 AM EST
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Sexy Beards
I have not worn a beard in over 20 years....I am now 49 but grew one this past April when the COLD weather hit and I still have it. Wouldn't you know since then have been reading several articles on the new trend....not just in Vancouver, but in NY, Boston, SF. At 49 I hardly need to look more mature, however, the look feels good in this town and on my face. Actually, I have always been amazed that the cool look in the gay world has been hairless faces and bodies. I mean, the reason I love mens bodies is for their masculinity, not for how similar that they can get to a female body. Grow the hair I say........ On a side note, right after growning a beard, a gay guy asked me "how often do you wash your beard?".....I was a bit in shock so replied as often as you wash your dick......as I walked away I then thought that perhaps this was a rare task for him......:)
Paul, Vancouver BC
07/03/10 9:04 PM EST
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